CumminsNursery

Catalog | About Cummins | Useful Information | Prices & Salesroom | Available for 2008 | Books | Home

Phone & Mail
 
Steve Cummins: 
 
indiancreekfarm@yahoo.com 
 
or call   
607.227.6147
 
 
 

 Cummins Nursery Blog (Check weekly )

 Apple Gallery
 
 

Dr. James N. Cummins
(Jim)
 
Office Phone: 
 865. 681.8423
 
Verizon Cell phone:
607.227.6172
after 9 p.m. or weekends 
 
jnc1@localnet.com

 


 

PLANTING BAREROOT TREES

Planting Bareroot Trees >> A note to our Organic friends >> Tree-Training Systems for the Home Orchard >> The Pollination Page >> The extra page >> Helpful links

All fruits, nuts and berries will benefit from mound or raised bed planting on all soils but the  best .  "Wet feet" is probably the most  serious hazard encountered by a fruit tree root system.  Mound planting is especially helpful in improving growth and reducing root  and crown rots  for semi-dwarf apple rootstocks,  cherry, apricot, peach and all berries. 

Never plant into saturated, wet soil. One solution is to work the ground up in the fall and cover with black plastic to keep it drier; the trees can then be planted anyt ime. Do not allow roots of bareroot trees to dry out for even a few seconds. Keep them in moist, organic matter or dig a shallow trench and bury the roots temporarily before planting. 

Plant high, keeping the crown area above the original soil line. The most fragile part of a tree is this transitional section where the trunk develops into roots (crown). This area should be kept as dry as possible, especially in the spring when the tree is leafing out. Raised-bed planting effectively prevents puddling near the trunk and crown area.
 

MOUND PLANTING STEP-BY-STEP (Home Garden) 
1) Prepare the soil by working up an area about 15 feet square. Dig just deep enough to remove any compacted layers. 10-20% well-composted manure or 
organic matter can be added at this stage. Never add fertilizers until the tree is growing well. 

2) Clip off broken, twisted or girdling roots. Do not plant trees with rotted roots or warty growths on the roots (crown gall). 

3) Place the tree on top of the ground and shovel soil from the surrounding area around the roots forming a mound. The ditch created can be used to water the tree next spring and summer. However, do not let water accumulate in the ditch during the winter.  The mound should be at least 3 ft in diameter and 12 inches high. 

4) Head the trees at 24" to encourage low branching and to balance the small root system. 

'BERMING" FOR MORE EXTENSIVE PLANTINGS

A moldboard plow can be used to build a "berm" 12 to 15 inches high and 3 or 4 ft wide. This is followed by disc or rotovator.  Trees are planted by digging holes into the berm. This results in trees having a root environment  that is well aerated and well drained -- critical for growth.If the berm is prepared in the fall, it is practical to use a tree planter in the spring. 

--Adapted in part  from the writing of Paul Vossen, Sonoma County (California) Farm Advisor

Back to Top